Kick Starter

This file is intended as a fast reference guide for those with new rabbits or for those who are setting up in preparation for rabbits.

All information listed is expanded in WW's files with explanations as to why this we make these recommendations. Click on the red links to view the relevant file.

Rabbits are a cheap pet - RIGHT?
This common misconception could not be further from the truth ...
THE REAL COST OF BEING OWNED BY A RABBIT

RABBIT PAIRS
Do NOT get a same sex pair. A desexed M/F pair is best.
THE PERILS OF SAME SEX PAIRINGS
Rabbits must be carefully bonded. You can't just put two together.
BONDING
Rabbits and Guinea Pigs should not be kept together.
RABBITS AND OTHER ANIMALS

DESEXING
Rabbits must be desexed
DESEXING INFO PACK

PELLETS
Good quality pellets Burgess or Selectives - both available at Animates, or Oxbow - but some buns can be reluctant to eat Oxbow and it can be hard to source at times.
As a guide start at 1/8 cup per 1kg of bun weight per day. So a 2kg bun would get 1/4 cup a day. Ideally half in the morning & half in the evening. If bun is under weight you could give a slightly bigger portion. Young rabbits should be given a larger amount due to grown but still need to ensure they are eating lots of hay. This is a starting amount only, not an absolute rule.

PELLETS - WHICH ONES AND HOW MANY?

GREENS
Safe weeds are best - Approx 1 cup of lightly packed greens per 2.5kg of bun weight per day. Ideally made up of bunny safe weeds, plantain, dandelion, puha etc. Before 3 months old young rabbits should only be given good quality junior pellets & hay. Once they reach 3-4 months old they can start to be given greens. Start with long fibrous grass first & gradually move onto bunny safe weeds one at a time noting if any upset the gut.
Veges - best limited or avoided all together if you can source weeds/grass instead.
WEEDS TO GATHER, GROW AND FEED
VEGES & FRUIT - PROCEED WITH CAUTION

HAY and GRASS
HAY - Rabbits always need access to hay and fresh, sweet smelling meadow hay is perfect. They like to poop where they eat so need a pile of fresh hay in their litter tray, generally topped up morning & evening. They won't eat it all as they like to rummage through & get the tastiest bits.
Young growing rabbits can have a mix of hays - lucerne is tasty & can be given mixed through timothy & meadow. It is not needed or recommended for adult buns. Purchasing hay by the bale from an animal feed store is the cheapest option & is usually nicer, higher quality hay. All hay needs to be stored for 3 months after baling to reduce RCD risk.
GRASS - Grass is also counted in hay portions so long as it's long fibrous grass. A handful or two a day is great if you have access to it.
HAY & GRASS

FRUIT - This is a TREAT food only. Think of it as lollies for buns. Very tiny amounts & very infrequently if ever, and only after 4-5 months of age.

LITTERBOX AND TOILET TRAINING
The larger the litter tray the better. Multiple trays are usually better - we suggest 2 for the first rabbit and an extra one for each additional rabbit. To set up we recommend a thin layer of wood fire pellets - which are available at Countdown, Mitre 10 or Bunnings, with lots of tasty hay on top. Add a pile of fresh hay morning & night & replace when needed. You can just use newspaper & hay if pellets aren't available but the pellets help a lot with the smell.
LITTERBOX / TOILET TRAINING

HOUSING
Many of us have inside buns & they make fantastic inside pets. They can also do well outside with suitable housing. The more space they have the better.
Westley's World promotes the basic hutch + exercise run size guidelines as follows -
OUTDOOR RABBITS - A 'HUTCH' / Sleeping/Snuggle box of an absolute minimum house/hutch size (for sleeping and shelter) of 1m2 - 2m2.
PLUS -
An attached run (with access 24/7) of an absolute minimum 3m (L) x 2m (W) x 1m (H) for the keeping of one or two rabbits.
INDOOR RABBITS - We recommend that an absolute minimum for an indoor pen/bedroom would be 2m x 2m as long as the rabbit(s) also have access to a rabbit proofed free roam area for a large part of the day.
OUTDOOR SETUPS
INDOOR SETUPS
HOUSING GUIDELINES - Recommended minimums are discussed in more detail here.

VACCINATION
This is essential. Have your rabbit vaccinated with Filavac NOT Cylap
RCD & VACCINATION

VETS
Find a rabbit savvy vet BEFORE you need one!
Rabbits have unique needs and many vets are simply not experienced in treating them correctly so it's recommended you find your local rabbit savvy vet before they are needed
VETS

Previous
Previous

Keeping Your Rabbit Warm in Winter

Next
Next

Litterbox / Toilet Training